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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.